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DICTIONARY

What does it really mean?

Facial treatments, skin care and anti-aging products are often expressed and presented using references to chemical substances, procedures and dermatological terminology. The following is an explanation of the most common expressions found.


A-B-C-D-E-F-G-H-I-J-K-L-M-N-O-P-Q-R-S-T-U-V-W-X-Y-Z
 

A

Aesthetic Medicine
A relatively young branch of the medicine which deals with all the aging problems. It gathers knowledge in dermatology, cosmetology, endocrinology, phlebology as well as other specific areas such as laser or hair transplantation.

Aging
It is a natural process which leads to the relaxation of the epiderm, a diminished capacity of cellular production of Collagen and Hyaluronic Acid, the unequal repartition of melanin leading to pigmentary spots, a relaxing of the immunology system leading to skin cancers. Certain genetic function may play a key role, but also other elements: UV rays, smoke, absence of cosmetic treatment and the hormonal change. Face and hands are the most visible part of the aging signs. Face tends to loose its contours, the neck wrinkles become deeper, hands tends to become thinner.
Recommendations:

  • avoid prolonged exposure to direct UV radiation;
  • stop smoking;
  • in menopause use hormones;
  • have a daily intake of fresh fruits and vegetables.

(see ANTI-OXIDANTS, COLLAGEN, HYALURONIC ACID, UV)

Aloe Vera
It is extracted from the plan Aloe Barbadensis. Rich in vitamins, minerals and amino-acids, it has filtrating properties on UV rays, thus counter-acting the skin damages provoked by radiations. It also has emollient, softening and refreshing properties.

Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHA´s)
The action of AHAs is not well elucidated. It may cause increased skin thickness, improvement of skin elasticity and increased collagen content. The most common AHAs used in cosmeceutical formulations are glycolic acid and lactic acid. At high concentrations of AHAs peeling occur as a result of damage or death of certain skin cells.
(see PEELING)

Anti-Oxidants
A class of natural or synthetic substances which blocks the free molecules of oxygen, responsible of many dys-metabolic processes (e.g. aging, infections, cancers, etc.)
(see LASOD)

Autologous Fat Transfer
New technique replacing the fillers (see FILLERS) consisting in working out small quantity of the patient´s blood into a viscous plasma-gel and inject into folds as a biodegradable, autologous material.

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B

Biometrical Assessment
Measurements of the progresses, before and after treatment, in aesthetic medicine, plastic surgery and dermatology.

Biodegradable
A material that breaks down biologically in the body, such as Hyaluronic Acid in PRODUCTS.

Botulinum toxin type A (Botox®)
BOTOX® is a natural purified protein, which in very low doses relaxes the overactive muscles that cause frown lines to form. Treatment is simple and non-surgical and smoothes the deep, persistent lines between your brows that have developed over time.

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C

Co-Enzyme Q10
Also called ubiquinone it is a naturally occurring anti-oxidant that is present in skin. Exposure of the skin to UV light, associated with photo-aging, results in a decrease in ubiquinone. In cultured human cells, ubiquinone has been showing to decrease UV radiation-induced oxidative stress and also to decrease the activity of certain enzymes that degrade collagen.

Collagen Native
It is a fibrotic protein which sustains the connective tissue. It is primarily responsible of the characteristics and properties of the skin. With aging the native collagen tends to change into a non soluble form, reducing drastically the capacity to bind water. Exogenous collagen has a hydrating and smoothing capacity on the skin.
(see HYALURONIC ACID)

Cosmeceuticals
Topical cosmetic pharmaceutical hybrids intended to enhance the health and beauty of the skin and body.

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D

Dermis
The middle layer of the skin and the skin's support structure.

Dysport™
The trademark used upon Botulin toxin Type A and indicated for hyperhydrose (exaggerated transpiration)
(see BOTOX™).

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E

Elastin
A protein in the middle layer of the skin that helps maintain the skin´s resilience and elasticity.

Epidermis
The outer layer of the skin that protects you from heat and cold.

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F

Facelift
A surgical procedure to remove excessive skin, particularly from the lower part of the face and under the chin.

Fillers
Visco-elastic substances (hyaluronic acid, collagen, poly-lactic acid etc.) which are injected intra-dermically in order to fill the wrinkles of the face or to increase the volume of the lips. The effect may last 3-6 months.

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G

Glabellar lines
The lines between the eyebrows, also known as frown lines.

Glycolic Acid
Natural fruit acids (alpha hydroxy acids or AHAs) rejuvenate the skin by encouraging the shedding of old, sun-damaged surface skin cells. Glycolic acid is the alpha hydroxy acid most frequently used for facial treatments but lactic and citric acid are also useful. Of course, lactic acid doesn't come from fruit - it comes from milk.

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H

Hyaluronic acid (HA)
A linear macromolecule of the glycoaminoglycan group which constitute 55% of the derm. It has a high capacity to bind water and it is responsible for the turgidity of the tissue and the smooth profile of the skin. With the age, this binding capacity diminishes. The application of exogenous HA forms a visco-elastic film which hydrates the skin and balances the loss of water. Its efficacy depends on the HA purity, molecular weight and concentration contained in the solution, cream or gel.
(see PRODUCTS)

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K

Kinetin
It is a hormone-like growth factor from plant and yeast. It acts as an anti-oxidant and free radical scavenger. It may slow the aging process. Little is known about its effects on the aging of human skin.

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L

LASOD™
Superoxide Dismutase from Cucumis Melo Cantalupensis (line 95LS444) + Lacto proteins (94%)
-Oral Skin Firmness

Low-level chronic irritation
A dermatological term for the constant irritation to which the skin is exposed: this includes environmental pollution, ultraviolet rays and stress. Together, these factors are the main reasons for the accelerated formation of wrinkles and prematurely aged skin.

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M

 
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N

Nasolabial folds
The folds from the root of the nose to the angle of the mouth.

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O

Oral commisures
The lines going down from the corner of the mouth.

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P

Peeling
It is an ablative medical technique which uses either the laser or of the chemical agents, in order to retighten the marks of time on the face or the body
(see Glycolic Acid).

Perioral lines
The lines on the upper lips, often referred to as smoker´s lines.

Periorbital lines
The lines and winkles around the eyes, also known as crow´s feet.

Peptides
Any member of a class of compounds of low molecular weight which yields two or more amino-acids and which forms the constituent parts of proteins.
(see PRODUCTS)

Philtrum ridges
The lines that go up from the upper lip line towards the nose.

Photoaging
Damage of the skin provoked by excessive exposition to the sun or to artificial UV rays.
(see AGING).

Pycnogenol
It possesses a broad spectrum of biological, pharmacological and therapeutic activities against free radicals and oxidative stress. Pycnogenol is extracted from pinebark and constituents of wine, cranberries, green and black tea and onions. They are similar to the grape seed extracts as active ingredients and medicinal use.

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R

Retinoic Acid
Also called tretinoïn, it is a naturally occurring form of vitamin A, it may be used topically for the treatment of acne and sun damaged (photo-aged) skin. Fine wrinkles may be also reduced and darker spots begin to fade at six to eight weeks. After topical administration appears to increase the rate of cell division and turnover. The number of cell layers in the outer portion of the skin is decreased. Exposure to the sun´s UV radiation increases the amount of several protease enzymes in the skin that cause the degradation of collagen. Pre-treatment of the skin with retinoic acid decreases the activity of these enzymes.
(see Retinol)

Retinol
It is chemically similar to retinoic acid or tretinoïn, but it is less effective and less irritating and it is allowed in cosmetic products.
(see RETINOIC ACID).

REV™
(see PRODUCTS)

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S

Saveskin™
A kit comprising a 2% high molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid 30ml 1 fl. oz airless container hydrogel obtained by biotechnological fermentation in a vegetable substratum and a 50 ml Micronic Water Vaporizer. Applied on the skin, it acts as a potent hydrating agent.

Stratum Corneum
The outermost layer of the epidermis consisting of dead or dying cells that are filled with mature keratin and that slough off. The process is called desquamation.

Smile lines
The lines appearing on the cheeks.

Subcutis
The inner layer of the skin, also called the subcutanous tissue, consists mainly of fat and keeps the body warm, stores energy and protects inner organs.

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U

UV Radiation
Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is part of the electromagnetic spectrum emitted by the sun. Small amounts of UV are essential for the production of vitamin D in people, yet overexposure may result in acute and chronic health effects on the skin (aging and cancer). The same types of damages have been reported by the regular exposure to artificial UV radiation for tanning purpose.

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V

Vermilion border
The line around the lips.

Vistabel™
The trademark used upon Botulinum toxin type A 100 I.U. It belongs to the pharmaceutical company Allergan.

Vitamin C
Topical Vitamin C is protective against UV radiations. Its instability however appears to be a problem. Preliminary studies suggest that it is more effective if combined with Vitamin E. In topical formulations it is usually present in a modified form (as an ester), but it must be converted back to the native to have an effect.

Vitamin E
Well known for its anti-oxidants effects. Many scientific studies conducted in animals have shown that Vitamin E reduces responses to UV radiations such as redness, swelling and wrinkling. A limited number of studies have shown protection from UV radiations by Vitamin E in humans.

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W

Worry lines
The horizontal lines that appear in the forehead, also called brow lines.

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Z